U Bein’s Bridge, Mandalay, Burma

We turn the corner of the final bend heading towards heading towards Taungthaman, the village at the side of the water. My wife and I shoo away the usual gathering of eager faces trying to persuade us to buy a whistle, bracelet or a colourful straw bag, we pay the driver and leave the tuk-tuk behind us.

 

 

 

 

The lake at first seems like any other in this part of Burma, but then we notice a difference. Stretching across the water is a bridge that seems to be floating above the surface of the lake.

Walking up the steps onto the first wooden slats of the bridge the heat of the day seems to melt away as a cool breeze greets us from across the water. A few steps further and we are greeted by smiling children who line the bridge in their distinctive green and white school uniforms. Some are fishing, others are reading battered looking textbooks and some just enjoying a good gossip in the peace of the late afternoon.

 

From the shore, the bridge seems fragile, as if a sudden gust of wind would blow it all up in the air like a pile of matchsticks. Up close however, the planks seem strong and permanent. The bleached teak, taken by mayor U-Bein from a disassembled palace 150 years ago, is almost white in colour and seems like stone. Here and there it is scribbled with curious graffiti, some phrases seeming ancient, others more modern.

 

As we walk further across the bridge a glowing red sun begins to sink below the hills in the distance beyond. The tops of old emaciated, leafless trees poke out from under the shallow waters of the lake and are silhouetted by the evening light. The waters here mostly disappear during the dry season leaving exposed the verdant green fields below and allowing the farmers to take profit of the rich soil beneath.

We catch sight of a small boast passing below, a blue and brown face painted awkwardly onto its bow. It is packed with monks and locals on their way to the monastery located at the far side of the bridge.  Some smile and wave as they pass, others idly dip their hands into the cool waters of the lake.

U Bein’s bridge is the longest of its kind in the world and we tire as we reach a small covered shelter. We sit for a while on the hard wooden beams and watch the people pass us by. The women are all brightly dressed wearing flower printed sarongs of the most striking colours, gold, deep blue, violet. Their faces are all daubed with thanaka, a yellowish paste made of ground bark, the make-up of choice for Burmese ladies. Some balance delicately on their heads baskets full of carefully wrapped bread or pastries.

We amble along the final stretch towards the island at the far end of the walkway and feel a sense of disappointment to be leaving this peaceful water world. With U-Bein’s Bridge the pleasure is all in the journey. We quickly turn round to enjoy another stroll.