A taste of Mallorca

As the plane floats gently downwards through the blanket of mist that is covering the island on this chilly spring morning I feel a rush of excitement at the prospect of finally getting to explore Mallorca. My parents had honeymooned here, my wife had worked here on and off for years, most of my friends had holidayed here and yet this was my first time.
               Landing at Palma, we headed into town passing the distinctively colourful windmills that dot the island’s landscape, some appearing brand new others seemingly about to fall apart with the next significant gust of wind. The fog has already lifted revealing a sunny but cold morning. Palma is still sleeping as we creep into our hotel, an old 16^th century palace located right in the heart of the city.
               Nearby we find a small cafe and settle for breakfast.  The place is decorated with huge oil paintings set on walls painted a deep red. Smartly dressed waiters move briskly from table to table and we sink into the extremely comfortable chairs of the cafe.
              Living in Barcelona we are familiar with ensaïmadas but those that we find here are truly something else.  The pastry of this quintessentially Mallorcan food is so light and moist that disappears as soon as you take a bite. It is delicious and sets us up perfectly for the day.   
                  Leaving the city we drive up to the island’s rugged coastline. Here cliffs plummet dramatically into the crystal blue waters of the Mediterranean and the roads wind slowly from village to village, usually congested with tourist buses packed with visitors from Germany and the UK. We stop off at Deia and scramble up to the tiny church located at the top of the hill there. It is a peaceful spot, the only noise the gentle clinking of the bells from the goats in the fields below. Enjoying the tranquillity, we spot the final resting place of Robert Graves, the famous English author who made this tiny Mallorcan village his home.  
           Lunch is taken at Fornalutx in a restaurant overlooking the mountains. Here we opt for the suckling pig and frito mallorquin – a rich but tasty mix of fried liver, kidneys, potatoes and pepper.
              We then descend back to the island’s central plain. The drive takes us past village after village of whitewashed walls and the green shuttered windows so typical of the landscape here. The houses picturesquely framed by the bright hues of pink and violet bougainvilleas.
               We stop off at the small town of Petra in the centre of the island and dine at a cavernous restaurant located in an old cellar. The place is full of local families all enjoying a relaxing meal and there is not a single tourist in sight. Again the food is remarkably good.  I choose tumbet which is made up of aubergines, peppers, potatoes and tomatoes fried with garlic and parsley. As with most food here it is extremely rich, but equally tasty.
   
We decide to head for the East coast to finish the day with a relaxing stroll around the beautiful Cala Figueres.  Calas are narrow inlets where the sea’s turquoise waters can reach far into land and this one has to be one of Mallorca best. It is delightful to amble around, listening to the fishermen chat whilst repairing their nets and the water laps up around the brightly coloured boats.  

Heading back to Palma, we discuss what else this many-faceted island could have in store for us tomorrow.